Where Kenya is ideal for safari first-timers, Tanzania is the choice of the old safari hand. Its parks and game reserves are seriously remote, possibly none more so than Katavi National Park in western Tanznia. Our journey there involved a flight from London to Arusha for a luxurious overnight stay at Arusha Coffee Lodge, followed by an hour-long flight to Tabora, before flying for another hour to Katavi.

We stayed at Chada Katavi, a seasonal camp of six tents hidden in trees on the edge of the Chada plain Its atmosphere is pure Out of Africa: the canvas tents are stylishly fitted out with wooden furniture, kilim rugs, hurricane lamps and an outdoor "bucket" shower. The battered leather chairs in the "library" tent are perfect for poring over maps while eating buttered scones.

Katavi's million acres of wilderness are so quiet, you can hear the seed pods falling from the tamarind trees. It's known for its huge hippo and crocodile populations and its twice-daily game drives and guided walks, escorted by armed rangers, are a thrilling way to take in the surroundings.

From Chada we flew to Lake Tanganyika where a dhow (sailing boat) ferried us to Mahale Mountains National Park and to Greystoke Mahale, a tiny resort of six beautiful open-fronted bandas (huts) on a picture-postcard beach........