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Chada Katavi

The Original Katavi Camp

Katavi National Park, in the far west of Tanzania, is somewhere that, even today, few people have been lucky enough to visit. Perhaps because of this, it feels untouched almost like traveling back in time; Chada Katavi sits in the midst of this truly wild place. 

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Mon, Jan 30, 2012

Wee, Wet and Wobbly

Brand new to the world, this little thing with its gangly legs and still-wet stripey fur was a sight to see.  During the short time we watched him he even threw down a couple of attempts at bucking playfully.  His mother had a chat with him about priorities, so he re-concentrated on simply walking in a straight line.

Good luck little guy...


Thu, Jan 26, 2012

Mystery Dinner Guest

Not so long ago, Richard Knocker was in camp.  As our guide and scout trainer for Nomad, his visits are an opportunity for us to spend valuable bush time with a patient, meticulous teacher. 

Richard walks confidently behind the scouts he has trained.  

We do like to keep track of the clients we've hosted at Chada, so we were wondering if Richard might be able to help us remember the name of this voluptuous client who showed up at dinner one evening during his last visit.  Any idea, Richard?


Tue, Jan 10, 2012

Slow Down…Cobra Crossing

When a black-necked spitting cobra crosses the road, some of you might hope your guide keeps driving, over the snake.  Tsk tsk.  Cobras are as protected as elephants and lions, and they can only spit about three metres.  As long as you're wearing sun glasses, you don't have much to fear.  Stop the car and enjoy the show...from a distance.


Wed, Jan 4, 2012

Pelicans

 

 
These are Great White Pelicans, believe it or not...they're a bit muddy.  They form up in dredging lines and feast on mudfish until they are so heavy that flight becomes an issue.  This may be why they have one of the largest wingspans of any flying bird in Africa, measuring up to an incredible 3 metres (10 feet).

Fri, Dec 30, 2011

Conservation…

What do you see when you look over  the Chada plains?  Do you see more than a herd of elephants?  Does this landscape give you a sense of satisfaction when you think of the protection wildlife enjoys in Africa’s national parks and reserves? If so, then you have a conservationist’s heart, and it is time for you to see more...
 
Read on with care, for this may be disturbing.  If you do not wish to see the fate that befalls many of our wild animals at the hands of men, go no further.  The lust for ivory and the greed that fuels the quest for it is nothing for the faint of heart to look upon.
 
But if you can’t bear to look, what can you possibly do to help?
 
Where does a lion go to hunt?  Where the prey is, of course.  And where does a man go to find ivory?  He goes where the elephants are.
 
 
This is the body of a bull who was in his prime.  He was shot 15 times.  His face was taken off with an axe and a machete, because a third of an elephant’s tusk length is imbedded in his skull, and greed dictates that not an ounce of ivory is left behind.
 
Do you wonder where the rangers are?  They are here, of that you can be sure.  They are fighting this war every day.  They are the reason you can visit our parks, the reason for the existence of what remains.  They are the reason that only two elephants were killed from a herd of many.  A poacher knows his shots may be heard, so he attacks swiftly and retreats into the vastness.  He is a needle in a haystack.
 
For two weeks every month, each ranger lives in the bush, away from his post, sheltered by a rain poncho and subsisting on field rations.  He spends his days standing guard over what he believes to be the future of his nation.
 
Ranger
 A ranger also fights an enemy he cannot see.  Asian demand for ivory continues unabated.  The tusks of this elephant will be carried on shoulders, bicycles, vehicles, boats and airplanes until they reach the ultimate buyer. 
 
Through informant networks, the net closes around poaching rings, uncovering ivory shipments while more poachers step up to fill the void. 
 
If you are a conservationist, next time you are on safari, remember to appreciate each idyllic scene with a deeper understanding of the price being paid to protect it.  Every ranger you meet, at every park gate or airstrip, give him a nod and tell him “Thank you.”  
 
Ranger in a swamp, returning from the scene

Fri, Dec 23, 2011

Too Many Lion Blogs

Lest we forget...Katavi is getting greener, to say the least, and a short stroll around the camp can yield some spectacular birding opportunities.

 
On the edge of camp, a female African grey hornbill tries to deal with a tasty praying mantis...
 
 
...and skulking in the undergrowth, an elusive Collared Palm Thrush sings a tune...
 
 
...more often heard than seen, this Red-chested Cuckoo inflates it's throat to call, "It will rain!"
 
 
Peering out from camp to the edge of the grassland, we see a Southern Ground Hornbill on a stroll of her own.  The lovely blue throat patch is a female characteristic. 
 
 
Scanning the Chada plain beyond the hornbill, we can easily spot this Black Coucal, contrasting its surroundings in its striking, seasonal breeding plumage.
 
 
Turning back to scan the bushes, my first ever photo opportunity with a Yellow-bellied Greenbul presents itself.  A real highlight of the walk!  Rarely does this bird show itself in the open.
 
 
I know, I know, but what is a bird walk without a few seconds to stop and admire the very common but no less stunning Lilac-breasted Roller.
 
 
And, the piece de resistance, Bohm's Bee-eater!  A common species in some parts of Africa, including at our own Sand Rivers Selous camp, but in Katavi they seem to be isolated to a single bend in the Kavuu river at the very end of the Chada plains.
 
Thanks for joining our bird walk.  Til next time...
 

Fri, Dec 9, 2011

Growing Up

Mataya, 2010

Another year later, have a look at the Mapacha brothers, so named because they look like twins.  Last year they were nomads.  Now they have taken over the Katisunga North Pride.

 
Mataya, 2011
 
Macho, 2010    
Macho, 2011

 They are turning out to be magnificent beasts.  You may recognize them as the elephant killers from last year's blog.


Tue, Dec 6, 2011

One year later…

Last year we had a day to remember...Chada blog followers will recall the night we spent listening to lions taking down a hippo in camp.  Newsletters and blogs and photos flew, and we told and retold the story over dinner in the mess tent, the very tent that was partially knocked down by the hippo and the lions as they fought.  To this day, despite being folded away in the off-season, the mess tent still has some blood stains and a few lion hairs stuck to the outside wall.

Chada camp, 2010

Remarkably, one of the most beautiful wildlife sightings of the season took place on the very same day, but was understandably overshadowed by the events in camp.  After watching the lions feeding on the hippo, waiting for them to leave, and putting the tent back together, we found a lovely young female leopard in a tamarind tree not far from Chada.

She was the most relaxed Katavi leopard we had so far seen, completely at ease on her branch above the vehicle.

Delilah, 2010

Yesterday, as we sat watching hippos in a pool, we saw a leopard draped over one of the lower branches of a rain tree not far away.  We drove closer.  So relaxed was this cat that she barely looked up when we approached her tree.  Then we noticed an impala she had stashed in the branches above her.

She looked familiar.  Even cats have distinct features, expressions, ear notches, and whisker marks that make identifying them easier.  After two hours of photographing her as she alternated between resting and eating, we were pretty sure she was the same leopard from the day of the lion vs. hippo battle last year.

Last year, we had named her Delilah for her beauty and poised, sultry nonchalance.  Back in camp, we went through our old photos and sure enough, this was our cat, now much more filled out and muscular, but no more nervous around a car than she had been before.  What a reunion!

 
Delilah, one year later...comparing her facial spots with the photo above was the clincher.
 
 
And for her grand finale...a special look at the tools of her trade.
 

Wed, Nov 23, 2011

A View from Tent Number Two

 
We could hear them coming, rumbling to each other like distant thunder.
Even the sound of their legs swishing through the grass seems loud 
when more than 200 elephants move across the Chada plain.
 
 
As fate would dictate, we had no guests in camp, but this herd still did not 
lack for an audience. Cameras in hand, we went to tent 2 to enjoy the show 
and there we found Chada's entire staff, standing and watching in silence.
 

Sun, Nov 20, 2011

A Big Big meal for the Chada Pride


A female elephant lay on her side, struggling to rise for an entire evening, suffering some unknown ailment.  She was tuskless, leaving no motive for poachers to have shot her and we never found any signs of injury.  By morning she had died and we found lions there, guarding what would be their meal for a week.

 


Flies swarm to the carcass by the thousands, prompting this male to shake them off occasionally.

He feasted for a while, painting his jaws crimson.

 
The second male stepped in and claimed his place at the dinner table by announcing to the cubs and their mother that their mealtime was over for the time being.
 
It's never nice to lose an elephant, but it was ironically comforting to finally see one passing away from something other than a poacher's bullet.  

 


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