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Chada Katavi

The Original Katavi Camp

Katavi National Park, in the far west of Tanzania, is somewhere that, even today, few people have been lucky enough to visit. Perhaps because of this, it feels untouched almost like traveling back in time; Chada Katavi sits in the midst of this truly wild place. 

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Fri, Dec 23, 2011

Too Many Lion Blogs

Lest we forget...Katavi is getting greener, to say the least, and a short stroll around the camp can yield some spectacular birding opportunities.

 
On the edge of camp, a female African grey hornbill tries to deal with a tasty praying mantis...
 
 
...and skulking in the undergrowth, an elusive Collared Palm Thrush sings a tune...
 
 
...more often heard than seen, this Red-chested Cuckoo inflates it's throat to call, "It will rain!"
 
 
Peering out from camp to the edge of the grassland, we see a Southern Ground Hornbill on a stroll of her own.  The lovely blue throat patch is a female characteristic. 
 
 
 
Scanning the Chada plain beyond the hornbill, we can easily spot this Black Coucal, contrasting its surroundings in its striking, seasonal breeding plumage.
 
 
Turning back to scan the bushes, my first ever photo opportunity with a Yellow-bellied Greenbul presents itself.  A real highlight of the walk!  Rarely does this bird show itself in the open.
 
 
I know, I know, but what is a bird walk without a few seconds to stop and admire the very common but no less stunning Lilac-breasted Roller.
 
 
And, the piece de resistance, Bohm's Bee-eater!  A common species in some parts of Africa, including at our own Sand Rivers Selous camp, but in Katavi they seem to be isolated to a single bend in the Kavuu river at the very end of the Chada plains.
 
Thanks for joining our bird walk.  Til next time...
 

Fri, Dec 9, 2011

Growing Up

Mataya, 2010

Another year later, have a look at the Mapacha brothers, so named because they look like twins.  Last year they were nomads.  Now they have taken over the Katisunga North Pride.

 
Mataya, 2011
 
Macho, 2010    
Macho, 2011

 They are turning out to be magnificent beasts.  You may recognize them as the elephant killers from last year's blog.


Tue, Dec 6, 2011

One year later…

Last year we had a day to remember...Chada blog followers will recall the night we spent listening to lions taking down a hippo in camp.  Newsletters and blogs and photos flew, and we told and retold the story over dinner in the mess tent, the very tent that was partially knocked down by the hippo and the lions as they fought.  To this day, despite being folded away in the off-season, the mess tent still has some blood stains and a few lion hairs stuck to the outside wall.

Chada camp, 2010

Remarkably, one of the most beautiful wildlife sightings of the season took place on the very same day, but was understandably overshadowed by the events in camp.  After watching the lions feeding on the hippo, waiting for them to leave, and putting the tent back together, we found a lovely young female leopard in a tamarind tree not far from Chada.

She was the most relaxed Katavi leopard we had so far seen, completely at ease on her branch above the vehicle.

Delilah, 2010

Yesterday, as we sat watching hippos in a pool, we saw a leopard draped over one of the lower branches of a rain tree not far away.  We drove closer.  So relaxed was this cat that she barely looked up when we approached her tree.  Then we noticed an impala she had stashed in the branches above her.

She looked familiar.  Even cats have distinct features, expressions, ear notches, and whisker marks that make identifying them easier.  After two hours of photographing her as she alternated between resting and eating, we were pretty sure she was the same leopard from the day of the lion vs. hippo battle last year.

Last year, we had named her Delilah for her beauty and poised, sultry nonchalance.  Back in camp, we went through our old photos and sure enough, this was our cat, now much more filled out and muscular, but no more nervous around a car than she had been before.  What a reunion!

 
Delilah, one year later...comparing her facial spots with the photo above was the clincher.
 
 
 
And for her grand finale...a special look at the tools of her trade.
 

Wed, Nov 23, 2011

A View from Tent Number Two

 
We could hear them coming, rumbling to each other like distant thunder.
Even the sound of their legs swishing through the grass seems loud 
when more than 200 elephants move across the Chada plain.
 
 
 
As fate would dictate, we had no guests in camp, but this herd still did not 
lack for an audience. Cameras in hand, we went to tent 2 to enjoy the show 
and there we found Chada's entire staff, standing and watching in silence.
 

Sun, Nov 20, 2011

A Big Big meal for the Chada Pride


A female elephant lay on her side, struggling to rise for an entire evening, suffering some unknown ailment.  She was tuskless, leaving no motive for poachers to have shot her and we never found any signs of injury.  By morning she had died and we found lions there, guarding what would be their meal for a week.

 


Flies swarm to the carcass by the thousands, prompting this male to shake them off occasionally.
 

He feasted for a while, painting his jaws crimson.

 
The second male stepped in and claimed his place at the dinner table by announcing to the cubs and their mother that their mealtime was over for the time being.
 
It's never nice to lose an elephant, but it was ironically comforting to finally see one passing away from something other than a poacher's bullet.  

 


Mon, Nov 14, 2011

At Long Last…Sable

 


Even more elusive than Katavi's wild dogs, Sable antelope had managed to evade us for months.  Suddenly, yesterday there they were, twenty-seven beautiful, brown, saber-horned females galloping on the open plain...
 
 
 
Not far behind, this ebony bull was courageous enough to stop and strike a pose before he followed his harem into the woodland.
 
 
 
 This is a glimpse we rarely experience.  We hope you enjoy it as much as we did.
 

Wed, Nov 9, 2011

Frequent Flyers

More often seen on the wing, the African marsh harrier is a graceful, low-flying hunter over the plains.


 

 
So it was a pleasure to get up close and photographic with this one as it settled on the ground for a much appreciated modeling session.
 
 
 
Not to be outdone, this knob-billed duck swooped in and stole the show.
 
 
 
Not bad looking for a duck, eh?
 

Mon, Oct 31, 2011

Farewell to a Lioness

One of the Chada pride's best hunters has finally succumbed to her wound.  Kicked in the back by a buffalo while hunting in June, Salama has been nursing a gash in her back that stubbornly refused to heal.

 
We found her body, but we would rather just show you this, her paw, and some pictures of her in life. 
Salama right, arguing with her sister over a choice piece of hippo.

When we posted the above shot on Chada's Facebook page in August, we still had high hopes that Salama would pull through.

 
Salama (right) nuzzles her sister.  We are not the only ones who will miss her it seems.
 
 
Farewell to a lovely lady.

Tue, Oct 18, 2011

The nightly visitor

One little Chada secret got unravelled this week! For some time, Chada camp has a nightly visitor that comes around and tries to access the kitchen water supply. Although access to the supply is covered by a pretty massive 15 kgs (30 lb) piece of stone, we end up finding it totally removed every morning.

Because of the leafy grounds around the water supply no clear footprints are left. Though surely a type of animal, we just couldn’t pin down what it was. Then came help of Peter Clough. As he brought along an infra red camera, it took us 2 minutes to set it up on the nearest tree.
 
That night we were able to see what it is that passes by. And a hyena it is!
 
As the hyena sneaks into camp you can see how it removes the stone. Please have a look at http://vimeo.com/search/videos/search:chada%20mistery/st/02cc2eff for some really upclose images of the trespasser!
 



Sun, Oct 16, 2011

Speed and stealth

As we enjoyed another leisurely drive along the riverbank yesterday afternoon, we were surprised to see a young giraffe walking around by his own. Strolling towards the open river bank, with the tree line a good 50 metres behind it, the animal was unaware of what was going to happen next.

As it kept facing the river, four lionesses came shooting out of the tree line. At a speed that was next to unbelievable, the lions jumped literally on top of the young giraffe. Two at the back and two biting the young animal in the neck – it was over within the blink of an eye.

Cruel but yet so fascinating. What a scene to observe.
 



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