Greystoke Mahale is nestled on a white sand beach in Lake Tanganyika. Towering behind the lodge are the Mahale Mountains, home to one of the largest known populations of wild Chimpanzees left on our planet.
Fri, Aug 25, 2017
Right at the top of the chimpanzee hierarchy sits the Alpha Male, whose position and popularity in the community is determined by his individual character. Much like us humans, the alpha male can be a good or bad guy. While some are loved by their subjects and adopt on a friendly style of rule, others abuse the power and can become aggressive tyrants who won't hesitate to injure or kill an opponent.
A third type of alpha male is the acute machiavellians, who build their power on wit and manipulation. Friendships become a ploy to recruit followers and a tool to leverage political advantage, old friends are quickly forgotten when they no longer offer a strategic value.
Manipulation, self-interest, bribes … you can't escape dirty politics even in the bush.
Currently in the hot seat is Primus, who has been our beloved alpha male for the past six years, a good king, respected and loved by most. But after such a long reign, he needs to watch his back. Only last Christmas there was a failed coup d-etat.
Now there are signs that things could change, with a new male gaining trust in the group. Teddy pictured below is 15 years old, very clear, extremely strong, and loved by all. We see him as great King material, lets wait and see…
Thu, Jul 13, 2017
There are just two warthogs left at Greystoke. These two ladies, Juliette and Georgette, are frequent visitors to our Greystoke camp, and bask in the attention from our camp crew and guests.
When the Mahale National Park was established in 1985, the wild areas took over the previous human settlements, and as the thick forest grew undisturbed, the ecosystem changed and caused some of the resident wildlife to die off or leave, including past lions and elephants. With no males around to ensure the future of our wild warthogs, these two are all that remain of the legacy of savannah animals that once roamed the Mahale Forests.
We count ourselves lucky that these two warted ladies call Greystoke home, and they can often be found in camp enjoying one of their favourite pastimes - snoozing on the white sands. And when they do decide to drag themselves from outside the Greystoke office, like many of our other lady guests, these two enjoy catching some of the suns rays on the lakeshore.
The fanciful pair are a welcome addition to Greystoke.
Sat, Jul 8, 2017
Season has started in Mahale and for the last month our chimpanzees have remained quite high up in the mountains. But now the hunt is on, and they are venturing further down in search of food. Unlike gorillas, chimps do eat meat. This can take guests by surprise, especially if they are lucky enough to witness this firsthand, but they are equally awed at how dynamic and exciting an event it is for the group.
They hunt their prey, the Red-Colobus Monkey, as a cohort of chimps, working together for the kill. The sharing of the meat is a political affair, and not all in the group may receive a piece of the spoils, “some for you, hmm but maybe not for you”.
Below Fanana has been caught red handed appropriating the red-colobus all to himself, a very patriarchal move from the former alpha male.
Once back at camp we check on the newest addition to the Vervet’s family, content seeing their little newborn feeding healthily from the mother.
Rounding up the day, we spend the evening with guests preparing sashimi to be enjoyed on the beach.
I am reminded daily of how magical Greystoke is!
Wed, May 10, 2017
The moment the camp closed for the season, Greystoke guides Butati and Mathias set off to sort out their visas and vaccinations for what would be a big adventure. Senior guide and partner-in-mischief, Mwiga, would soon be on his way back from a sales trip to the US and would meet them in Kigali. A week later and they were ready to hit the road.
Butati & Mathias hit the road to Rwanda.
Their journey took them first by bus to Bujumbura where they immediately noticed the change in language, culture and time. Hawkers lined the streets selling goat skewers and a traditional cassava dish. Canny cyclists hitched lifts by hanging onto the back of huge tankers and trucks. Drinking alcohol before 6pm is prohibited, but as the sun lowered, people emerged to sit outside their houses and enjoy a drink and a neighbourly chat.
Greystoke Mahale Guides reunited
The three lads were reunited in Kigali the following day amid great excitement – the adventure had now begun in earnest. The next morning saw them board a bus to Gisenyi in Rwanda. As they climbed through the cold air, fog gave way to spectacular views of the mountainous landscapes that the country is known for. At the border, the team was met by Eric Rwimo, who they at first mistook for a guide, so knowledgeable and personable was he, but found out later is a driver for the Virunga Park.
Greystoke Guides with their new friend, Eric.
As they drove through Goma, Eric pointed out the chikudu wooden bicycles and spoke of the lava flow that damaged so much of the town after the 2002 eruption of Mt Nyiragongo. The team immediately warmed to Eric’s charm and they became friends.
The chikudu - Congolese wooden bicycle.
Soon the group, accompanied by armed rangers, reached Mikeno Lodge – their base for a couple of days. Besides the treat of the beautiful lodge, the guides were delighted to be reunited with Kate and Cam, good friends and previous managers of Greystoke Mahale, now working in the Congo. They planned their activities and startled the trackers and guests with their all-too realistic pant-hoot, causing one of the waiters to seriously consider diving under a table.
Once again reunited with previous Greystoke Managers, Cameron & Kate, now working in Virunga.
The next morning saw a successful trek in search of chimps, spotted at a distance through binoculars, but still thrilling. In the afternoon, Cam and Kate took the group to Semkwekwe – a sanctuary for gorillas orphaned by the illegal charcoal trade, which had brought them into conflict with this family. Excitement at seeing the first gorilla was tinged with regret for the group’s traumatic past.
Semkwekwe Gorilla Sanctuary - first encounter.
The following day, the team eagerly grabbed a quick breakfast and hit the road to Bukima to start their trek. After a thorough briefing, they set out on foot in search of the gorillas accompanied by the rangers and some other guests. This was an opportunity for the Greystoke guides to observe their Congolese counterparts in action for a session together later when they would share constructive input as part of this exchange. The group split in search of the Humba and Nyakamwe families and as Butati said: “I can't explain how exciting it was for us to have our first taste of the gorillas in the wild. It was a breathtaking moment and we were all overwhelmed with joy. The things were damn big!”
A silverback with presence!
Later in the day, the Greystoke guides and Virunga Rangers met for several hours and talked through the trek, our lads giving some pointers about the briefing and how to better lead groups and take care of guests. They discussed the challenges faced by the Rangers and considered ways to tackle them. There is no formal guide training in the Congolese Park and the Rangers really appreciated the input. The following day, the Greystoke guides led the trek by way of a practical example, handing over when they reached the gorilla groups. This trek yielded a particularly exhilarating sighting and the mettle of the guides was tested in the face of a huge charging silverback, which halted just a meter away. What a finale!
Greystoke guides and Virunga Rangers
On the last day in Virunga, the group got to climb to the summit of Mt Nyiragongo. A taxing 8km hike with a number of stops saw them arrive at the cold summit of the volcano, devoid of vegetation from the frequent eruptions. They peered into the crater from the edge and took in the mesmerizing sight - the rumbling sound of the boiling lava, smoke full of sulphur gas and the glow of the lava lake. It was breathtaking. A cold but happy night’s sleep later, they woke to fog, unable to see 2m ahead, but descended quickly and headed back to Goma and on to Lake Kivu Lodge for a final lunch and goodbye to Kate and Cam.
The bubbling heart of Mt Nyiragongo
The last part of the adventure was by a fast boat (which took 3 hours) to Lwiro Primate Sanctuary. They first toured the beautifully designed and richly stocked library, built in 1953, and the natural history museum, which is an unexpected marvel of scientific records and specimens. The guides then met the community of captive chimpanzees, all there because the illegal pet trade had decimated their families. Despite that they are well protected and cared for here, it was striking and saddening how dysfunctional this society of chimpanzees was compared to the wild M-Group at Mahale. The Greystoke gang chatted to Itsaso, the Spanish primatologist based at the Sanctuary, about the challenges faced by conservation the world over.
The boat trip to Lwiro.
The adventure was at an end. All that was left was for the group to make their way back to Kigali to catch their flight home to Tanzania. It had been an exhilarating, informative and thoroughly fun trip. We look forward to welcoming the Rangers of Virunga to Tanzania later this year.
Thanks to Butati, Mwiga and Mathias for a great trip report and photos, and also to Kate and Cam for photos and for helping organise the trip.
Fri, Mar 10, 2017
At the moment the raining season offers us stunning views of our great Lake Tanganyika. And what a Lake! The second largest water lake by volume (17% of the fresh water on Earth stands in front of us!), the second deepest (1400 meters!), and the longest one (670 km!).
Every single evening the sun sets in such harmony with it, then disappearing far ahead in the hills on the Congo side, leaving us with the rising Venus and the stars popping up one by one. African time for dreams...
And blue, blue, how blue you are Tanganiika. Swimming in your essence is such a pleasure. Butati our fantastic guide has such freedom in you!
And what an ecosystem, hundred of cichlids flourishing for millions of years along the shore. Time to fish Cameron, my friend, and former manager here in Greystoke, the Yellow-bellied Cichlid or "Kunwe". Sashimi is waiting for us around the fire!
Great history is passing by, twice a week, with the MV Liemba. The former German war ship called at the time the "Graf von Goetzen". It was buit in 1913. The captain had her scuttled in 1916 but a salvage team raised her from the water in 1927 than she returned to service as the MV Liemba. Today she still runs and such poetry come to us when we see her passing by in the Great Lake.
Boat cruising is always such an epic time to relax and enjoy the Mahale Mountains, specially when you have the smile and fun of Mwiga our guide on board. And sometimes see the hippos under the clear water. Thank you Willem Dekker, our guest, for this great shot you did with you Go Pro my friend!
Have a lovely weekend,
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