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Kiba Point

Life in the Selous

Kiba Point is an intimate, 4-room private camp, which means that when you and your family or friends visit, you get the whole camp to yourself.

Nestled into the bush on the banks of the Rufiji river in the heart of the Selous Game Reserve, KP is just about as wild a safari camp as you'll find anywhere. With open rooms to take in the constant activity of the animals, the bird, the hippos, the ellies, and all the other animals make sure you'll never feel too alone. 

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Thu, Jul 28, 2011

Fly camp

Fly camping is the best thing we do. And yet, as special as fly camping is, it's rare that I get to head out with my guests to enjoy it. In fact, previous to this week,  I'd been flycamping as many times at other Nomad camps as I had here in the Selous.
 




But the wait was worth it. With great company, a beautiful sunset, spectacular birdlife on Lake Tagalala, and lions roaring at one end of the lake while hyenas whooped at the other, I couldn't help feeling jealous of all the guests who enjoy fly camping without me.


Wed, Jul 20, 2011

Front row seats at the Kiba airshow

I went out to the Kiba airstrip yesterday to receive some vegetable supplies, and was surprised to find a rather formidable welcome party for the plane. 



I suppose that to those of us who have travelled across continents in airplanes, a small, single-engine craft nimbly landing on the dirt slope we call the kiba airstrip may not be too exciting. These lions, however, seem quite impressed by the performance.

In the end, however, the lion's natural laziness overwhelmed the excitement of the plane landing and taking off, and guests debarking with a week's worth of vegetables for the camp. The pair never stirred from their shady haven. The new guests were quite chuffed to find their first Selous lions 30 second into their visit. 


Sat, Jul 16, 2011

Drop your Malarone and grab your…socks?

Last year, I wrote a blog about anti-mosquito laser defense systems. It seemed like a bazaar, and overly-sophisticated malaria prevention strategy, but it shows promising results.

This year, researchers are taking a different approach. According to an article in The Washington Post, public health researchers are trying to tap into the hidden potential of your smelly socks as a means of capturing mosquitoes. A comparative field test is currently underway in Ifakara, a town just outside the Selous Game Reserve, to determine whether natural human foot odor, collected in used socks, creates a more potent attraction for mosquitoes than synthetic chemical odors. The final step in the process is to contaminate those socks with a fungus that kills mosquitoes before the malaria-causing Plasmodium falciparum is ready to infect a new human host.

So forget laser defense and expensive prophylactics. It turns out your socks are more than the laundry attendant's worse nightmare, they're the mosquitoes' worse nightmare too.


Thu, Jul 7, 2011

All along the river

Yesterday evening, I headed out to the sand river, my favorite drive in the vicinity of Kiba Point. Last year, the sand river was exactly what it's name implied, a vast, sparkling dry river bed of white sand that hinted at a wetter era long past. But in truth, that era was only as long ago as the last rainy season, and as we enter July, encroaching tendrils of water still snake up the sand river. Following the heavy rains in April and May, the riverbed has gone to seed, with a blanket of grasses and shrubs washing across the once blinding sand.
 
Now, even driving over the long-used tracks feels like trail-blazing, and the giraffes that frequent the sand river every evening seem exaggerated as they tower above low shrubbery. And while this particular drive didn't reveal the sand river's classic image-its pride of 15 lions grouped around a buffalo carcass-it certainly did not dissapoint with a wealth of birdlife and some large herds of very large mammals.
 
This breeding herd of buffalo initally fled when they heard the approching vehicle, the accompanying flock of cattle egrets forced to abandon their perches and take to the air with chaotic flare.
 

 
Eventually, though, the herd turned and trained their characteristic stony glare on me.
 

 
Here a white-browed coucal takes flight over the scrub.
 
 
On my way back, I encountered a vain lilac-breasted roller possing on a bush.
 
 
 
To complete the drive, as I neared the Rufiji at the beginning of the sand river, I caught a giraffe set against an acacia bush and Kipalala hill, the sun setting just over his shoulder.
 
 
Some people might wonder how I can do the same drive week after week, and year after year.  It's simple. Every time is different, every animal sighting is rewarding, and never more so than on the expanse of the sand river.

Mon, Jun 20, 2011

A fishy drama

Here in the Selous, a thousand dramas play out every day.  Some involve wild chases with lions and other big game, but more often the story involves a few smaller players.

Out on a game drive this morning, I came around a corner on the shore of Lake Tagalala and caught sight of a Great Egret, with a fish in its mouth.  Is this just another quick and easy meal?  With a Striated Heron and a croc nearby, and a wriggling fish to hold on to, the outcome was far from certain.

 
The egret waded into the lake with the fish in its mouth, trying to flip it around so that he could swallow it whole, as egrets are want to do with their catch.  Meanwhile, the croc kicked off the bank and slid out into the water.
 
 
The fish flopped at just the right time and the bird couldn't hold onto its catch.


 
The Striated Heron thought he might be able to pull a fast one and started to lunge in after the dropped fish.  But the much bigger egret wasn't taking any of the little guy's nonsense.
 

 
A stern look told the punk to stay away.  The egret quickly thrust his head back into the water and popped out again, the fish securely in his beak.  The heron couldn't do much more than look on in disappointment.
 

 
Unfortunately for him, however, the egret wasn't the biggest player on the pond.  There was someone around a bit bigger than his own size to take him on.
 
 
The croc, a rather large one by Lake Tagalala standards, sensed he might be able to get an easy snack just like the heron.  
 
 
By this point, the egret was desperately trying to get the fish down his gullet.  When the croc closed to within a meter and a half, however, he realized he was running out of time to choke it down.
 

 
He legged it and the croc decided not to chase after the quick-footed bird.  A croc this big has more than enough experience to know that when a great egret decides to run for it, there's no point chasing after competition that can fly. 
 
 
Finally, with a little space between himself and his pursuers, the egret was able to accomplish what he had been trying to do since the beginning: get the fish pointed head first down his throat.
 
 
With a big gulp, the fish slid visibly down the long neck and the drama finally came to an end.  

Fri, Jun 17, 2011

Selous Eclipse

Two nights ago, the KP guests were treated to a rare site while flycamping on the shore of Lake Tagalala--A full lunar eclipse.  I stayed up to get a few shots as the earths shadow slid across the moon.
 

At 9:20, the moon was almost too bright to look at, but the edge of the earth's shadow was just beginning to creep across.



 

By 10:30, the bush had lost its usual full-moon glow, and the moon had taken on it's half-moon crescent shape.




At 11:30, just before the eclipse was completed, the surface of the moon was thrown into relief.  The hint of red from the shadows was supposedly caused by the ash cloud from the Icelandic volcano.


 

A lion roaring completed the experience.


Sat, Jun 11, 2011

Meet Jim

This is Jim. 
 


That's Jim's giant catfish.  Jim has been helping out at Kiba over the last few months but he's been working in the Selous for years.  During all the time Jim's been in the Selous, he's learned a thing or two about the Rufiji's catfish.  Every day, as soon as he finishes his lunch, Jim grabs his homemade rod, a couple of worms, and starts hauling fish out of the river.  A slow day means he can only fill five guys' bellies instead of ten.


Tue, Jun 7, 2011

The river runs down

After months of torrents of water running down the Rufiji river, collected from a watershed that is roughly 1000 kilometers long, the golden sandbanks have returned.



 
As impressissive as the brimming Rufiji is, however, the sandbanks bring with them plenty to enjoy: crocs sunbathing on the white sand, hippos enjoying an afternoon stroll, giraffes and waterbuck taking advantage of the safe and open areas to drink, and countless birds fishing or pecking through sand in search of food.

Fri, Jun 3, 2011

The little things in the Selous


Most people come to the Selous for the unnecessarily and frighteningly large animals.  Well, they also come for the scenery and walking, the boat cruises and fishing, the sunsets and sundowners, the relaxation and the adventure.  But mostly people come for the really big animals.



At this time of the year, however, as the green season wanes, one's eye is just as often drawn to the little flashes of color in the selous as the prehistoric forms of the large mammals.  As the sun illuminated Kiba yesterday morning, I decided to take an hour to capture just a few of the little, and most colorful, organisms in the camp.

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This flower is called Lion's Claw for its prickly pod beneath the orange blossoms, a name which has earned it a place among Africa's 'Green Five'

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Tue, May 24, 2011

Our homely footprint



I took this picture a few kilometers outside the Selous Game Reserve boundary.  The nest belongs to a pair of aptly-named Hammerkops, medium sized water birds that build enormous nests out of sticks. 
As you can see from the blown-up picture below, however, some may experiment with other materials.

We never know exactly how our actions will impact the environment, but this goes to show that nothing is unused in the wild, and that things we discard without a thought can very quickly attract the attention of animals.

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