By air, the Northern Selous is defined by the Rufii River. A mile wide in places, its courses past and present are deeply carved in the soft sandy soil and visible for miles as you approach by light aircraft.

But it's not until you get onto the ground, and better still, onto your own feet, that you start to appreciate why we feel that this part of the reserve is so special.

This small, intricate and diverse section of wild Africa that surrounds us at Sand Rivers and Kiba Point isn't on the way to anywhere and it's pervaded by a sense of solitude that's difficult to find in busier parts of the reserve. 

Any tracks here are beaten not by the small number of visitors that come to stay with us, but by the feet of generations of hippos and elephant whose influence has shaped the landscape at least as much as the river.

And the scenery changes quickly, in a matter of a few miles miombo woodland - home to hartebeest, zebra and herds of buffalo - gives way to wide grassy valleys strangely reminiscent of English park land; thick stands of doum palms part to reveal glittering lakes burgeoning with life of all kinds.

And sand rivers, literally rivers of dry sand, from which the lodge takes its name, bleached white and littered with the sculptural forms of dead leadwood trees are one of the most alluring aspects of this area.  They're also a magnet to game, drawn to the fresh water that flows beneath the surface.

This area is home to all the major mammal species - lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and even the very illusive black rhino - but it's a place that rewards patience and a relaxed approach. 

Drive noisily into a lake shore scattering game and you may not see much. But spend a morning sitting quietly over breakfast, or silently walking along the water's edge and you'll almost certainly be privy to wonderful intimacy as families of elephant arrive to wallow and feed entirely oblivious to your presence.