The Mahale Mountains
Mahale isn't just about chimps, although we appreciate they like to take centre stage.
In the 1,613 square kms of the Mahale Mountains, there are still no roads. All you'll find are forest paths and tracks made by animals over the years. This, and the fact that the only practical way of reaching camp is by boat, add to the sense of seclusion here.
Flying in over the northern end of the mountains, you'll see nothing for many many miles and only small villages and local fishermen in dhows dotted along the lakeshore.
As you head down the lake, towards Greystoke, the villages thin out and the forest takes over. It's not long before civilization seems very far behind.
Greystoke has one foot in the forest and one in the lake and your days here reflect the mix of both. We can think of nothing better than a gentle hike in the forest up to one of the many waterfalls, before cooling off for a dip in one of the ice-cold rock pools.
As well as the chimps, the forest is home to many other animals, including bushbucks, bushpigs and an incredible array of birds and butterflies. It's also inhabited by nine species of primate.
If you're not feeling so energetic, perhaps after an adrenalin-filled morning of chimping, we'd suggest a late afternoon trip in the dhow. Head south with a cool box and sundowners on board. If you moor near the shoreline you can often see hippos swimming underwater close to the boat.