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''This is one of the few parks where you can walk and fly-camp – all that’s between you and the dark is a sheet of canvas''

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The red path ribbons through bush that is blushing green at the first rain. We don’t see another vehicle; it’s like we’ve got the land all to ourselves. Originally called the Selous after the English conservationist who inspired novelist Henry Rider Haggard’s Allan Quatermain, Tanzania’s Nyerere National Park was renamed in in a nod to the country’s first president. It is one of the biggest on the continent – more than twice the size of Kruger. We’re on the Rufiji River to catch tiger fish. Africa’s most exciting freshwater species, they run a hard, fast fight. They’ll whip the line so that it whines, breaking the surface then darting beneath the boat. It lurches but the tigers only yield when they tire, and often they don’t. When we can’t get them, we catch enormous catfish with fingernail-pink skin and whiskered heads...